Within the trans community, makeup is often used to help align our facial appearance with the gender expression that feels right for us. It can be especially helpful in the early stages of transition, as an alternative to physical changes that may only be accessible later on. Makeup can be used not only to feminize our features, but also to give them a more masculine appearance.
Learning how to use makeup can be a complex and confusing task, as there are multiple steps and many different products involved. This guide offers a brief introduction to common makeup products and terms, and presents several ways you can use makeup to achieve the look that matches your gender expression.
Beginner’s Makeup Glossary
Primer – A base layer applied at the start of the makeup process to create a smooth surface that helps the makeup stay in place. You can either use a standalone primer, or opt for a tinted sunscreen, which can provide a similar effect.
Concealer – A product applied before the rest of your makeup, mainly used to hide facial details we prefer not to draw attention to, such as dark under-eye circles or areas with facial hair. Concealers come in various forms, including sticks, brushes, creams, and palettes. A palette containing multiple shades can sometimes be especially useful, since you may want to use different shades, but at other times, the specific color we’ll want would have to be purchased separately.
How to use: Wash your hands so that no dirt gets into your skin. Apply the concealer to the desired area and blend it with your fingers. To hide specific details, it is recommended to use the opposite color, e.g. an Orange concealer for Blue-toned areas, or a Green one to reduce redness.
Foundation – An additional base layer applied before makeup. Its purpose is to create a more even skin tone and to help conceal certain details. It is available in liquid, powder, or cream form.
How to use: It is recommended to apply foundation using a sponge or a brush. For liquid foundation, apply a small amount to the back of your hand so that your body heat warms it slightly, making it easier to work with. Using a brush or sponge, gently pat the foundation onto your face. Avoid spreading or rubbing the foundation into the skin, as this can create an overly heavy appearance and may unintentionally remove makeup that has already been applied.
Setting Powder – A powder that can be applied over liquid layers to help preserve the makeup for a longer period of time and allow subsequent layers to adhere to the skin.
Highlighter – After applying concealer and foundation, the face can appear very even and uniform in tone. The purpose of the highlighter is to bring back color variation, as well as add depth and complexity to the face.
How to use: Highlighter is used to create a kind of “contour” (outline) of the face. In areas we want to stand out more, we use a lighter highlighter, while in areas we want to recede into the background, we use a darker shade. There are many ways to achieve this, and it depends on you and your goal. For examples, see the videos linked at the beginning of the page.
Eyeliner – It comes in the form of a marker, pen, or pencil. Eyeliner is usually black, but can also be found in a variety of colors. Its purpose is to add color and emphasize the area above the upper lash line (tightline), and sometimes below the lower lash line (waterline), as well as to create a “wing” at the outer corners of the eyes.
How to use: Beginners are advised to try an eyeliner pencil before moving on to liquid eyeliner. Start applying from the corner of the eye farthest from the nose, continue through the middle of the eyelid, and finish at the inner corner, creating a line that becomes thinner as it approaches the nose.
Two points to keep in mind:
- 1. If your eyes are watery, the moisture may wash off the eyeliner before it dries. Therefore, it is recommended to apply eyeliner when your eyes are relatively dry.
2. There are many different eye shapes, such as almond-shaped eyes, hooded eyes, and more. The way we apply eyeliner and the style that suits us best are influenced by our eye shape. Not every guide or online video will be suitable for every eye shape.
Eyeshadow – Color applied to the area around the eyes and the eyelids, intended to define the eye or alter the appearance of its shape. Eyeshadow most commonly comes in the form of pressed powder.
Mascara – Usually black and comes with a brush. It is applied to the eyelashes to emphasize them.
Blush/Rouge – A product intended to add color and accentuate the cheeks. It is usually red or pink.
Lipstick – A layer of makeup applied on the lips to define and emphasize them.
Lip Balm – A clear layer applied to the lips to protect them and prevent dryness or chapping. Lip balm is also used for cosmetic purposes in addition to makeup.
Tips for using makeup for a feminine appearance
Makeup can help create a more feminine facial appearance, conceal facial hair, and assist in coping with dysphoria, especially before starting a medical transition. Here are a few tips:
Using makeup after a laser treatment
It is recommended to consult your healthcare provider for instructions after laser treatment. In general, it is best not to use makeup immediately after the procedure and to wait at least four hours.
Concealing Facial Hair
Even after shaving, some facial hair remains under the skin. Because the skin on the face is thin, hair may still be visible in shaved areas. This can create a kind of “shadow” on the face that you may want to conceal to achieve a more feminine appearance.
To hide the shadow, first shave the areas you want to conceal (makeup can be applied without shaving, but coverage of facial hair will be less effective). When applying concealer, choose a color that contrasts with the shadow. In most cases, the shadow appears bluish due to the hair under the skin, so an orange-toned concealer is recommended to neutralize it. After that, continue applying makeup as desired.
Note: Concealer alone cannot effectively cover facial hair; it works best in combination with additional layers of makeup.
Makeup Tips for Creating a Feminine Appearance
Makeup can be used to create a more feminine presentation of the face. For example:
- To make the upper part of the face appear wider and the lower part narrower:
One method is, after applying concealer and foundation, to add a little extra concealer in a shade lighter than your skin tone under the eyes, on the nose, and on the temples (sides of the head near the eyes). - To make the forehead appear shorter: Use a darker highlighter on areas where the brow bone protrudes.
- To add volume to the cheeks: Apply blush to accentuate them, which helps create a more feminine look.
Makeup Tips for Creating a Masculine Appearance
Makeup can also be used to create a more masculine presentation. For example:
- Eyebrows: Use a pencil to fill in the eyebrows, giving them a fuller and thicker look.
- Facial hair: Use mascara to color facial hair (for example, to emphasize a mustache)
- Contour: Use eyeshadow or contour makeup to define or shadow the cheekbones, jawline, and forehead.